Xi Beach

Xi lies on the south coast of the Paliki peninsula, the western "arm" of Kefalonia, near the town of Lixouri. Behind the beach rise soft cliffs of grey-blue clay. These clays belong to a layer up to about 300 metres thick that was laid down on an ancient seabed between roughly 3.5 and 0.8 million years ago, and the sea, wind and rain are still slowly wearing them away.

As the clay minerals break down, they release iron, which gives the sand its warm reddish-orange colour. The contrast between the red sand, the pale cliffs and the turquoise sea is what makes Xi so recognisable — and the beach is one of the geosites of the Kefalonia–Ithaca UNESCO Global Geopark, recognised for exactly this kind of geology.

The sand slopes very gently into the sea, so you can walk a long way out before the water reaches your waist. That makes Xi popular with families and with anyone who prefers calm, shallow water. It is a long beach, up to about 50 metres wide in places, and it holds a Blue Flag.

The clay. The soft clay at the foot of the cliffs is famous: many visitors smear it on their skin, let it dry in the sun and wash it off in the sea. If you try it, take the clay from what has already fallen onto the beach rather than digging into the cliffs, which are fragile.

Facilities. There are showers and changing cabins at both entrances, tavernas and cafés along the beach, and sunbeds and umbrellas for hire in sections near the hotels and bars. Away from these areas the beach is quieter.

A few kilometres along the coast near Lixouri lies Kounopetra, a huge rock in the sea about 20 metres around. Until 1953 it rocked gently back and forth on its own — local accounts say about twenty times a minute — and visitors came to watch it. The great earthquake of August 1953 shifted its base, and it has stood still ever since. A sign at the site tells the story.

Xi is busiest in July and August, especially in the afternoon. June and September are quieter and the sea is still warm.

• By ferry and road: From Argostoli, take the car ferry across the bay to Lixouri (about every 30–60 minutes, depending on the season), then drive south through the village of Mantzavinata. An asphalt road splits shortly before the beach, with a branch to each end.
• By boat: Day cruises from Argostoli often include a swim stop at Xi, approaching the beach from the sea.

• Bring an umbrella or arrive early if you want shade; the cliffs give none.
• The clay is slippery when wet — take care walking near the cliffs.
• Lixouri, the main town of the Paliki peninsula, is worth a short stop on the way back for its squares and cafés.