Monastery of Agios Gerasimos

Gerasimos was born at the beginning of the 16th century in Trikala, in Corinthia, into the noble Notaras family. He became a monk on Mount Athos, spent twelve years in Jerusalem, and lived for a time on Crete and Zakynthos before arriving on Kefalonia around 1555. For his first five years on the island he lived as a hermit in a cave at Lassi, near today's Argostoli.

In 1560 he was given a ruined chapel of the Dormition of the Virgin in the Omala valley. He restored it and founded a convent there, which he named New Jerusalem, and which became a centre of charity for the poor of the island. He died on 15 August 1579. When his body was exhumed — twice — it was found intact, and he was recognised as a saint by the Orthodox Church in 1622.

For Kefalonians, Gerasimos is far more than a historical figure. He is the protector of the island and a healer of the sick, and countless families name a son after him. After the earthquakes of 1953, which destroyed most of the island, many survivors spoke of seeing him comforting and caring for the injured.

The old church and the saint's relics. The saint's body is kept in a silver reliquary inside the old church, above his original tomb, and the faithful queue to venerate it. The church is richly decorated, with painted walls and ceilings and gleaming chandeliers.

The hermit's cell. From inside the old church, a narrow opening and a steep iron ladder about three metres long lead down to two small underground chambers where Gerasimos prayed. Visitors who go down are expected to kneel in the cell. The passage is very tight, so it is not for everyone.

The new church. Beside the old monastery stands a large modern church with a tiled dome and arched porches, visible from across the valley.

The plane trees and wells. In the courtyard are three large plane trees and three wells that, by tradition, the saint planted and dug with his own hands.

The saint is celebrated twice a year, on 16 August (the anniversary of his death) and 20 October (the transfer of his relics). On these days pilgrims come from all over Greece. On 16 August the saint's body is carried in a great procession and laid under the plane tree, and it is passed over the sick who wait along its route hoping for healing — one of the most moving religious events on the island.

The monastery is a working religious site, so visitors are asked to dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered — and to keep their voices low. Entry is free. Ask before taking photos inside the churches, and never during a service. On feast days the monastery is very crowded and roads in the valley are busy.

• By road: The monastery lies in the Omala valley in central Kefalonia, between the villages of Valsamata and Fragata, and is easily reached from Argostoli and Sami.
• Combine it: The Robola wine country of the Omala valley surrounds the monastery, and Mount Ainos rises behind it.
• On an excursion: Some island tours stop at the monastery on the way between Argostoli and the east coast.

• Carry a scarf or light wrap to cover your shoulders.
• The saint's first cave, at Lassi near Argostoli, can also be visited.