Myrtos Beach

Myrtos lies on the north-west coast in the Pylaros area, about 29 km north of Argostoli, at the foot of the steep slopes between Agia Dynati and Kalon Oros (901 m). The cliffs are limestone, and over time their erosion has fed the bay with white stones. The waves sort them by size: large round cobbles at the back of the beach, smaller and smaller pebbles towards the sea.

The famous colour comes from the same stone. Waves grind the pebbles into very fine white particles that stay suspended near the shore and reflect the sunlight, turning the water a milky turquoise that deepens to dark blue further out. On a calm morning the line between the two colours is almost straight.

It is no surprise that Myrtos is regularly voted one of the best beaches in Greece, and it often appears in travel magazines' lists of the world's most beautiful beaches. It also had a moment on the big screen: the mine-explosion scene in Captain Corelli's Mandolin (2001) was filmed here.

The best-known view of Myrtos is from above. On the main road between Agia Efimia and Assos there is a viewpoint high on the cliffs where the whole bay opens up below you — the white beach, the two headlands and the open Ionian Sea. It is worth stopping even if you are not going down to swim, and it is the spot where most photographs of Myrtos are taken. Late afternoon light is particularly beautiful, as the beach faces west.

Myrtos is long and deep enough that it rarely feels crowded. Part of it has umbrellas and sunbeds for rent and there is a snack bar; the rest is left natural. The water is very clear, and on a calm day the swimming is superb.

A few things to know before you go:

• It is pebbles, not sand. The stones are smooth but large near the water, which makes getting in and out harder. Water shoes help a lot.
• There is little natural shade. Bring an umbrella or rent one, and plenty of water.
• Watch the sea. Myrtos faces the open sea, so it can get wavy on windy days. Swim with care and follow any flags or warnings.
• Sunsets are spectacular — another reason to come later in the day.

June and September give you warm water with fewer people. In July and August arrive in the morning or late in the afternoon; the car park at the bottom fills up around midday. Outside the summer season the beach has no services, but the view from the top is just as dramatic.

• By road: A steep road of about 2 km with tight hairpin bends leads down from the village of Divarata to a car park behind the beach. Drive slowly, especially on the way back up.
• By bus: In summer a local bus has run to Myrtos from the Agia Efimia area; check the current timetable locally.
• On an excursion: Island tours of north Kefalonia usually stop at the viewpoint above the beach, and some private boat cruises pass beneath the cliffs.

• There are tavernas in Divarata at the top of the road, and a snack bar on the beach in summer.
• Assos is a short drive north and Agia Efimia a short drive east — easy to combine in one day.
• Do not climb on the cliffs or sit right below them; loose stones are part of how the beach was formed.