Ithaca

In Homer's Odyssey, Ithaca is the kingdom of Odysseus, where Penelope waited for him for twenty years. Where exactly Homer's Ithaca was has been debated for centuries — the coastline of the Odyssey does not match any island perfectly — but for the people of Ithaca the answer has never been in doubt.

Archaeology keeps adding weight to their side. At Agios Athanasios, a hillside site near the village of Exogi in the north of the island traditionally known as the "School of Homer", a team from the University of Ioannina has uncovered a large settlement of the Mycenaean age, from the 14th or 13th century BC, including an underground cistern built from huge stone blocks. In 2025 the team reported tile fragments bearing part of the name Odysseus and a small bronze bust, which they interpret as evidence of a sanctuary where Odysseus was worshipped as a hero in Hellenistic and early Roman times — a shrine that drew visitors from across the Mediterranean.

Ithaca is also part of the Kefalonia–Ithaca UNESCO Global Geopark, recognised in 2022 for the geology and landscapes of both islands.

Ithaca's capital, Vathy (also spelled Vathi), wraps around the end of a long, deep bay in the south of the island — so deep and enclosed that from the town it looks like a lake. Its houses rise in tiers around the harbour, and the town has been protected as a traditional settlement since 1978. The waterfront is lined with cafés and tavernas, and yachts anchor in the bay. It is the natural place for a coffee, a walk and lunch.

The road north from Vathy climbs along the mountains with views over the sea to Kefalonia, before dropping to a handful of villages that make Ithaca so loved.

• Kioni is a small harbour village on a green hillside in the north, with colourful houses around a sheltered bay. It is often called one of the prettiest little harbours in the Ionian.
• Stavros, in the north, is a hillside village with views over the sea. It is the village most closely tied to the Odysseus story: the "School of Homer" site is nearby, and a bust of Odysseus stands in the village. Try rovani, a traditional local sweet.
• Frikes is a tiny harbour at the foot of a valley in the north, with seasonal ferry links to Lefkada and Kefalonia.

Ithaca's coast is a string of pebble coves with very clear water. Gidaki, a beach near Vathy that is easiest to reach by boat, is one of the best known, and the small beaches around Vathy bay and the north coast are rarely crowded.

• By ferry: Car ferries cross from Sami on Kefalonia to Pisaetos on Ithaca several times a day; the crossing is short. From Pisaetos it is a short drive to Vathy. In summer there are also seasonal links from Fiscardo and to Frikes.
• By boat trip: Day cruises from Sami and from Skala visit Vathy, Kioni and beaches such as Gidaki, and private boats sail around the island.
• On an organised day trip: Guided bus tours cross on the ferry from Sami and visit Vathy, Stavros and Kioni in one day.

Ithaca is at its best from May to October. In July and August the harbours are busy with yachts, but the island never feels crowded the way bigger islands can. Spring brings wildflowers and perfect walking weather.

• Ithaca is small but mountainous; the drive from Vathy to Kioni takes longer than the map suggests.
• If you plan to swim, bring water shoes — most beaches are pebbly.
• Much of Ithaca's charm is its quiet: shops and tavernas in the villages may keep shorter hours outside high summer.