Sami

The hills above the modern town hide the remains of Same, one of the ancient cities of Kefalonia. Its position was ideal: a good natural harbour on the strait opposite Ithaca, protected by a mole against the north winds. Between the late 4th and the late 3rd century BC the city was enclosed by walls about 3.4 km long.

Same's most famous moment came in 189 BC. The Roman consul Marcus Fulvius Nobilior arrived on Kefalonia during his campaign against the Aetolians and their allies. Same was the only city on the island to put up serious resistance. The Romans besieged it for four months before storming the city. A walking route leads up to the ancient acropolis today, with wide views over the bay.

Life went on under Roman rule. Close to the town, Roman baths were excavated in 1960 — six rooms, some with mosaic floors — and the hills behind Sami are dotted with monasteries. The best known, Agrilia, dates from the 18th century; tradition says its icon of the Virgin was found by shepherds in 1722.

Like almost everywhere on Kefalonia, Sami was destroyed by the earthquakes of 1953 and rebuilt, so the town you see is modern and spacious, with a long waterfront promenade of cafés and tavernas facing the harbour. Around the turn of the millennium it took on another role: the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin (2001) used Sami as the set for the island's main port town, and several harbour scenes were shot along this waterfront.

Sami is Kefalonia's second-largest port after Argostoli. Ferries cross from here to Ithaca and to the mainland, and many boat trips and private cruises to Ithaca start from the harbour.

The waterfront. Walk the promenade in the evening, when the light turns the hills of Ithaca pink and the harbour fills with people.

Antisamos Beach. About 4 km from Sami over the hill, Antisamos is a bay of white pebbles and very clear water in a bowl of green hills — one of the most beautiful beaches on the east coast and another Captain Corelli location.

Karavomylos. At the north end of the bay, a seaside path of about 1.2 km leads to the small lake of Karavomylos, where water that has travelled under the island from the Katavothres near Argostoli wells up and runs into the sea.

The caves. Sami is the natural base for the two most famous caves on Kefalonia: Melissani, the cave lake a couple of kilometres north, and Drogarati, the great hall of stalactites a few kilometres south-west.

The ancient acropolis. For history and a view, follow the route up the hill to the remains of ancient Same.

Sami is lively all summer thanks to its port. May, June and September are ideal for walking up to the acropolis or along the coast; in July and August, swim at Antisamos early in the day before it gets busy.

• By road: Sami is on the east coast, on the road across the island from Argostoli.
• By sea: Ferries link Sami with Ithaca and with the mainland; timetables change by season.
• On an excursion: Island tours of the east side pass through Sami, and many Ithaca trips and private boat cruises depart from its harbour.

• If you are taking a ferry or boat trip, allow time to park — the harbour gets busy in the morning in summer.
• Sami, Melissani, Drogarati and Antisamos together make a full and varied day.