Robola Wine & the Omala Valley

The Omala plateau (also written Omalos or Omali) lies at an average height of about 390 metres in the south-central part of the island, at the foot of Mount Ainos, which rises to 1,628 metres. The valley is a patchwork of vineyards, olive groves and fields, with villages such as Valsamata, Fragata, Michata and Agios Eleftherios around its edges. In the middle of it all stands the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos, the island's most important religious site.

Robola is Kefalonia's signature grape and the most widely planted variety on the island. Since 1982 the dry white wine made from it has had its own protected designation of origin, PDO Robola of Kefalonia, which must be made entirely from Robola grapes grown within a defined zone of about 180 hectares.

That zone covers the Omala plateau and the western and north-western slopes of Mount Ainos, from about 175 to 800 metres above sea level. The soils are thin, poor and full of limestone, which is exactly what gives the wine its character: Robola is typically fresh, with lively acidity and a mineral, citrusy feel. Many vines on the mountain slopes are old and grow on their own roots rather than on grafted rootstock — something that has become rare in European vineyards.

The largest producer is the Robola Cooperative of Kefalonia, founded in 1982 and known by its brand Orealios Gaea. Its winery in the Omala valley collects and processes the large majority of the Robola harvest — around 85% — from vineyards on steep, semi-mountainous slopes with gravelly limestone soils. Besides Robola, local growers also cultivate other traditional varieties such as Vostilidi, Muscat, Mavrodaphne and Zakynthino.

A visit to a winery here is the easiest way to taste the difference between Robola and other Greek whites, and to see how small the plots on the mountain really are.

Robola is not the only protected wine on the island. Kefalonia also has designations of origin for Muscat of Kefalonia, a sweet white wine, and Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia, a sweet red. Several independent family wineries around the island make their own Robola and experiment with other local grapes.

• Wineries: The Robola Cooperative and other wineries in the area welcome visitors for tastings; opening times vary by season, so check before you go.
• The monastery: The Monastery of Agios Gerasimos is right in the valley — dress modestly if you visit.
• Mount Ainos: A road climbs from the area towards the summit, through forests of the Kefalonian fir, with views over the island and the sea.
• The harvest: Late August and September is grape-picking season, when the valley is at its busiest and most beautiful.

• By road: The Omala valley is in the centre of the island, a short drive inland from Argostoli and reachable from Sami across the mountains.
• On an excursion: Some island tours include a wine tasting at the Orealios Gaea winery and a stop at the monastery.

• If you are tasting wine, plan who drives — the mountain roads are winding.
• Bottles of Robola make a good souvenir; wineries and shops in Argostoli sell them.